51³Ô¹Ïapp

Miss Gillian Proctor

Job: Associate Professor, Enterprise

Faculty: Arts, Design and Humanities

School/department: School of Leadership, Management and Marketing

Research group(s): 51³Ô¹Ïapp Medical Forum, The Leather Hub, Artifacts Live

Address: De 51³Ô¹Ïapp University, The Gateway, Leicester, LE1 9BH

T: +44 (0)116 257 7396

E: gproctor@dmu.ac.uk

W:

Social Media:

 

Personal profile

Gillian is an internationally applauded designer with expertise in the intimates, activewear and wider fashion industries having spearheaded the Contour Fashion courses for a number of years. Founder and PI of the 51³Ô¹Ïapp  Medical Forum, working in pre and post cancer opportunities alongside a breadth of related brands, manufacturers, medics and cancer patients. Livery Liaison for 51³Ô¹Ïapp, she is a Freeman of the Leathersellers Company and the City of London and a member of the Board of Trustees of the Leathercraft Trust. She is the Instigator and Project Director of Artifacts Live: a Legacy in Leather, an ongoing project ( and the recently launched Artifacts 2: Leather & Lace) working to retain, protect and promote creative and cultural heritage skills in leatherworking. Part of the AHRC Bid for Leather Hub at 51³Ô¹Ïapp and Trade & Industry Group Leader for SOLES. She is Associate Professor in Enterprise in the Faculty of Arts, Design & Humanities, a committed advocate of  business and industry liaison and has represented 51³Ô¹Ïapp extensively on a breadth of outward facing international  occasions. To deliver innovative and transformative education and research that has a positive and sustainable impact on society and the environment through our student, staff and industry partners across the globe to create fulfilling and far reaching business solutions.           

Research group affiliations

The Leather Hub

51³Ô¹Ïapp Medical Forum 

Publications and outputs

'Talking Point: What does the future of leather education look like?  International Leather Maker, edify digital media, January 2025

 

 ‘A Century of Style; Lingerie: Icons of Style in the 20th Century’, co-author, written with Karoline Newman. Apple Press, London. ISBN. 1-84092-077-7.

‘A Sporting Revolution’. World’s Sports Activewear. Number 4. 14

‘Lingerie Destinations: An assessment of Contour Fashion Graduate Destinations. ASBCI Handbook. 14

‘Contour in Conversation’, World’s Number 1 Model Magazine, August, 14

‘Contour Edge’, Lingerie Insight Magazine, Volume 2, issue 1, 13

‘Structure, Constraint and Sexual Provocation’, the Evolution of the Corset’, International Womens’ Day, March, 12

’Design Heritage; 65 Years of Contour fashion’, Lingerie Buyer Magazine, June, 12

Past, Present & Future;’ Womens Wear Daily Magazine, August, 12

Fashion & Costume Museum. ‘Catwalk to Cover’, July 11

‘Naughtier by Nature’, The Body Issue; Harper’s Bazaar, January. 08

‘Hidden Treasures’, Channel 5 Documentary and book review, The Guardian

‘A Brief History’ The Sunday Express in association with Serena Rees, founder of Agent Provocateur and Alicia Reger. 03

‘Inside Out: Underwear & Style in the UK’, British Fashion Council in association with The Design Museum, London, 02

‘Fashioning the Body’, Corset Exhibition, Fashion Institute of Technology, 2000

Podcast: Breast Cancer: https://soundcloud.com/user-161374197/gillian-proctor-the-dmu-medical-forum

 MoL short film:

‘51³Ô¹Ïapp Medical Forum’ launch Event. 17 /about-dmu/news/2019/june/breast-cancer-diagnosis-prompts-creation-of-dmu-research-group.aspx

‘The Problem with M&S: A look at contemporary look at Business in today’s High Street’, BBC 2. 16

‘Idiosyncrasies of the Crinoline’ in association with Brian May, Sands Costumiers and the BBC. ‘In Conversation with Brian May, the Crinoline’, in association with 51³Ô¹Ïapp Contour students, V&A Museum, London. 16

Brazil Fashion TV. 'Associations of Fashion & Underpinning', The British House,Sao Paolo  Brazil, 14

BBC1 ‘ ‘The One Show’, interview and department filming, October 12

De 51³Ô¹Ïapp University Catwalk Show London Launch, Short Form Film. 10 

 Central TV Series.  ’Decades of Fashion’. 07

Sky TV,& Betty TV; ‘The Bra: developments of Bra Ergonomics to the present Day’. 04

BBC 2 ‘Restoration:’ ‘The History of the Spirella Corset Company’ with Griff Rhys-Jones. 03

Scottish TV, ‘Sexy, Quirky & Bizarre Collectables. Broadcast reviewing widening lingerie trends. 02

Central TV late night broadcast. ‘Knickers and Cross Dressing’, Current affairs panel discussion for cross-gender practises of dress in varying levels of society. 02

‘Corsets’, Men & Motors, Katie Richmond’s ‘Fantasy Land’, Episode 5. 2000’

‘Lingerie’, Documentary, Channel 5, 2000

‘Case Study: The British Lingerie Industry’ Nottingham Business School in conjunction with DTI for the Ukranian Academy of Foreign Trade. 2000

 Trend Presentation, British Educational representative, Interfiliere, Paris, 2000

‘The Potential of 22nd Century Lingerie’. Development & Planning of the new Fashion Gallery for Leicestershire County Council & Heritage Group, 2000

Research interests/expertise

Aerodynamics of the bra relative to body transformation following breast cancer surgery and the mental, physical, emotional and sexual effects post-surgery.

Creative and Cultural heritage preservation of bespoke hand directed skills, at risk through loss of generational sustenance,  particularly in leather

Qualifications

M.Des. RCA. Textiles & Fashion, Royal College of Art

BA (Hons) Textile Design, Loughborough College of Art & Design

Foundation Course, Loughborough College  of Art & Design

Courses taught

BA (Hons) Contour Fashion Design

BA(Hons) Fashion Contour Design

MA Bodywear

Honours and awards

Freeman of the City of London, 2024

Freeman of the Leathersellers Company, 2023

Vice Chancellor’s Award, 2014

Lifetime Achievement Award, UK Lingerie Awards, 2013

Global Intimate Powerlist of Top Ten Industry Influencers, 4 years running

International Deisgn Tutor of the Year, Hand & Lock Awards, 09

Membership of external committees

Trustee of the Leathercraft Trust, since September 2024. Ongoing. 

Chair of the International Intimate Apparel Institute, 2010-2019

Chair of the UK Lingerie Awards Association

VIP Member and European Education Representative of the Eurovet Future Advisory Panel. 2016-19

Women at Work Panel, Hearst Corporation

Women in Philanthropy, in associstion with 51³Ô¹Ïapp Alumni

e.g Name of committee, period, function, description, current Y/N

Membership of professional associations and societies

Trustee of  The Leathercraft Trust, current. Provides vital care of  the UK's most significant historic collection of leather objects, images, film and ephemera, and promotes the preservation and utilisation of the artifacts into future potential. Current.

Freeman of the Leathersellers Company,  since September 2023. A 600 year old Livery Company dedicated to leather.  Leather Liaison for the Company responsible for the 51³Ô¹Ïapp Bursary allocation, to students to enable and encourage the applications and sustainability of leather. Organiser for the annual Leather School, Train the Trainers for technical staff. Design Awards, and courses in leather and supporting leather education via the Leather Federation. Current

Member of SOLES, Schools of Leather Education & Science. Team Leader for the Trade & Industry discussion group ( one of three goups directed by 51³Ô¹Ïapp) established 2023 to review and devise new, innovative and applicable education into industry routes in leather education globally. This involved extensive discusion with the global leather industry at the Asia Pacific Leather Fair in Hong Kong, 2024. Current. 

 Founder and Principal Investigator of The Medical Forum. Founded 2019, 'The Power of Three' this incorporates a significant number of  global representatives from the apparel and activewear industry alongside the wider fashion industry. Manufacturers, suppliers, fabrication, press, editorial and clinicians. Partners include Mr. J. Krupa, Head of Breast Cancer Unit and Oconoplasty at Glenfield University Teaching Hospital. Dr. Nick Ibery, Royal Society of Medicine, Royal Society of Osteoporosis, frontline nurses, womens' support groups, therapists and GP's. 51³Ô¹Ïapp forms the lynchpin alongside colleagues from HLS, CEM and technical services support, many of whom have experienced breast cancer first hand. The Forum has benefitted from HEIF funding support to include the Technical route in Contour Fashion and ContourFashion Innovation MA/MSc. Current.

Chair of the Intimate Apparel Industry advisory panel. Involving bi-annual meetings at Interfiliere, Paris and MODA, NEC ( Later 51³Ô¹Ïapp). Involving a cross section of global representatives from intimate apparel/active sportswear industries as an unoffical Industry Advisory Board for Contour  Fashion. Fund raising format hich supported student opportunities and hardshipand aligned the course to the industry expectations for graduates. 2010-19

e.g Association Name, period start, period end, description

Projects

Artifacts Live: A Legacy in Leather, in association with the Museum of Leathercraft resulted in an exhibition of the same name at the 51³Ô¹Ïapp Heritage Museum. January 2024 until January 2025. Listed in the Top 20 UK Museums. A version of the exhibition (Artifacts Asia) will be shown at the Asia Pacific Leather Fair in Hong Kong in March. Extensive press and media outcomes and an award for 'Excellence in Leatherworking' from the Real Leather Stay Different (Tanning Association of America). The project is significant in attracting the International Council of Museums (ICOM-CC) to 51³Ô¹Ïapp for their forthcoming Modern Leather Conference in October, 2025.

Artifacts 2: Leather & Lace the newly launched follow on project in association with the Leathercraft Trust ( formerly MoL) and the Symington Collection, once again sponsored by the Leathersellers. 

 The Medical Forum ongoing. Recent project included the 'Drop in & Chat' Event for Breast cancer patients past and present in the south Leicestershire area to offer support in confidence, presentation and regeneration of sexuality.

Forthcoming events

'Artifacts Asia', at the Asia Pacific Leather Fair in Hong Kong in March. This will be a  representation of the larger current exhibition, Artifacts Live: A Legacy in Leather,  showcasing a 360 degree walk through the exhibtion, featuring the brochure and shortfilm from the project as well as highlighting 3D Scanning and  holographic  developments. alongside our resreach and our heritage buildings.

51³Ô¹Ïapp will host The International Council of Museums (ICOM-CC) a Conservation Conference, attracting visitors from as far away as the Arctic Circle and New Zealand, focussing on Modern Leather. October 30 & 31, 2025

Conference attendance

'Artifacts Live; A Legacy in Leather': Shaking the Archives: Reconsidering the Role of Artifacts in Contemporary Society', in collaboration with Dr. Mary O.Neill. Queen Margaret University, Edinburgh, 23

'Artifacts Live; A Legacy In Leather'; Exploring Situatedness. Joint paper with Elizabeth Wheelband, Ellia Academy. Evora, Portugal, 23

'Innovation & Technical Advancement in Contour Fashion'. Society of Colourists & Dyers, 51³Ô¹Ïapp, 19

'70 Years of Design Application & Innovation; Contour Fashion at 51³Ô¹Ïapp', Keynote address. The 4th Latvian Lingerie Conference, Liapaja, Latvia, 18

'French Style with a British Twist': Collaborative presentation with Aubade Lingerie, and Carolyn Hardacre. The Lectra Conference. Paris, 15

'Associations of Fashion & Underpinning'; The British House, Sao Paolo, Brazil, 14

'Structure, Constraint & Sexual Provocation'; Keynote presentation ASBCI Conference, Rutland, 14

'History of the Corset & Associated Underpinnings': Fashion & Textiles MUseum Conference, The American University, 13

 

‘Idiosyncrasies of the Corset’, Speed Lecture, International Women’s Day, & Royal Visit, 12

‘Going for Gold’, American University Conference, London 10

'Embellishments Through Fashion' ; The Hand & Lock Conference & Scottish Style Awards, Glasgow, 09

The Seduction of Lace: Luxury Consumable, Vanity & Ostentation or Erotic Fantasy': 86th Textile Institute World Conference: Hong Kong, 2008

'Structure, Constraint & Sexual Provocation':Extreme Fashion: Pushing the Boundaries of Design, Technology & Business’ Ryerson University, Toronto, Canada, 08

'The Nottingham Trent Lace Collection'. International Lace Conference, Bowes Museum, Co. Durham. 08

'Lingerie: Practical Solution or Erotic Fantasy'. Leicester Lingerie Symposium, Leicester University. 05

Internally funded research project information

HEIF allaocation: Medical Forum Relaunch. Trinity House, April 24 to 65 attendees across the intimates/activwear and wider fashion industries, clinicians and frontline medics. 

 

HEIF allocation: Pilot Launch of 51³Ô¹Ïapp Medical Forum , November 19, Fletcher Suite, Vijay Patel Building, 51³Ô¹Ïapp to 55 industry attendees

e.g Project title, funding source, type of project, Start date, end date, role in project, collaborators

Professional esteem indicators

Gillian has been a judge at the UK Lingerie Awards since they began three years ago and also chairs the International Institute of Intimate Apparel.

Selected media interviews and events

GREAT Festival of Creativity, Shanghai - February 2015

International Institute of Intimate Apparel - February 2015

Urban Fox: Interview: ’My Way’ - February 2015

Lectra Congress, Paris: Presentation: French Style with a British Twist’ with Carolyn Hardaker - February 2015

Radio 4: Dons & Student Quiz representing Contour Fashion - February 2015

VIP Eurovet Committee Member - January 2015

Women in Philanthropy - January 2015

UK Lingerie Awards, London - December 2014

Visiting Lecturer; Medical Association: ‘History of the Corset’ - November 2014

Judging Panel: UK Lingerie Awards - October 2014

Interview: World’s Number 1 Model Magazine:  ‘Contour in Conversation’ August 2014

MA Validation Panel - July 2014

Article: ‘Lingerie Destinations’: ASBCI Clothing Industry Handbook - July 2014

Contour Ball Committee Member - July 2014

Vice Chancellor’s Oscar Ceremony - winner Vice Chancellor’s Award - June 2014

BBC Radio Leicester Interview - Contour & Lifetime Work - June 2014

Festival of Creativity, Sao Paolo, Brazil. Exhibition, The British House, TV/guest Lecture presentation, and interviews for Brazil fashion TV, Exhibition at Escola Design School, visits to FAAP, Escola and Senac Universities - June 2014

Organiser: Contour Catwalk Show, Graduate Fashion Week, London - June 2014

ASBCI AGM; Lecture: ‘Structure, Constraint & Sexual Provocation: The History of the Corset’, Rutland - April 2014

History of Lace Lecture (week 21) - February 2014

Interview: L’Equippe Magazine: Contour Fashion - January 2014

Interview: ‘Lingerie Language’ Fashion London Magazine - December 2013

Interview: Lingerie Insight Magazine: Winning & Achieving - December 2013

Interview: Leicester Mercury: ‘Lifetime in Lingerie’ - December 2013

‘Titivations of a Corsetiere’, Nottingham - September 2013

‘History of the Corset’ Summer Lecture, American University, London - August 2013

Article ’65 Years of Contour & Contour’ Lingerie Insight Magazine

‘Where are they now?’ Lingerie Buyer Magazine article

'Up & Coming Graduates’, Lingerie Buyer Magazine, 2012

‘History of the Silhouette’, Lecture, MAFB, Oct, 2011

Triumph Inspiration Awards, Berlin, 2011

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